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Illuminations, Epiphanies, and Reflections
Visiting Busch
& St. Louis
I
admit it. I lurk around the Cardinal message board at mlb.com, and one
thing that always strikes me are the
number of people looking for some advice
about their upcoming first trip to St. Louis to see a Cardinals
game. So, I thought I put some thoughts together and post them
here. I've probably missed some things since I only get into town
once or twice each year, but it's a starting point.
Seating
at Busch Stadium.
I liked both old Sportsman's Park and old Busch Stadium,
but neither compare to this place. As you might expect with a new
stadium, tickets aren't cheap, and the average ticket price, just under
$30, is now about $7 more than the mlb average, but that has been
driven up by the number of new premium and all-inclusive seats that
include all-you-can eat buffets and unlimited beer and soft
drinks.
Still, there are lots of reasonably priced tickets available.
Outfield Terrace Reserved seats start at $13, bleacher seats are $16,
and prices go up from there.
In
my wandering about the stands, I
personally haven't found a bad seat in the house.
The
view of the Arch and the St. Louis skyline above the playing field and
center field
scoreboard is spectacular, and the best views--as you would expect--are
found
in the seats between first and third base.
Be
careful, though, before
purchasing Terrace Reserved seats directly behind home plate.
I've
never sat in them, but I've heard some people complain that from some
the view
of the pitcher's mound and/or home plate can be partially obstructed by
a
ledge for television cameras.
If you want to see into the Cardinals dugout during the game, be sure
to sit on the third base side. Oh, there is something else to
consider if
you
are attending a day game; the sun. The bleacher seats face
southwest
and, at times, look directly into the afternoon sun, which may bother
some folks.
There is no need to worry about where
to
sit just so you can be near a concession stand; refreshments are sold
all over the
place. That said, if you're looking for a certain type of food,
be aware that some
items are only sold at
specific
stands, and you may find yourself walking a good distance to get
what you want. There is also no
need to
worry about sitting near a restroom, there are plenty of those too, and
lines are
almost non-existent, even for women.
To help you decide where to sit, click here or on the
seating chart. The
easiest way to purchase
tickets
is through the Cardinals website schedule. After you've picked a
date,
just click on the little green box with a "T." When you're
picking a
date, you may
want to consider attending on a promotion day when some company will be
giving something away. If you use the link above, the game days
with
promotions will be identified with a boxed *. If you click on the
*,
you be able to view details of the promotion.
If you find that a game you want to attend is soldout, don't hesitate
to
purchase a Standing Room Only ticket for $13 as long as you think your
feet can handle it. There are numerous SRO locations (behind the
home
plate box seats, behind the bleachers, along the baselines,
etc.) around the park, all with pretty good sight lines.
Generally,
there is no need to arrive early to secure a spot unless you want to
stand at the field level.
If you aren't up to SRO tickets, and you still want to see a specific
game, you may want to try the Cardinals-sponsored Prime
Seat Club. After paying a one-time $35 membership fee, you
can purchase unused season tickets at a 20% mark up over the gate
price. It's not cheap, but usually it is a less
expensive than buying similar tickets at StubHub.
What to wear
If you are a Cardinal fan--or if you just want to fit in--why
not try
something, ummm . . . . red; or something that includes the "birds
on
the bat"
logo. That's what most of the 47,000 people in the place will
have on. If you're not part of Cardinal Nation, don't be afraid
to
wear your team's colors if you're following along on a road
trip. Cardinal fans aren't into abusing out-of-towners.
That said, if you are a Cubs or Mets fan, and you are wearing a Cubs or
Mets jersey, and you are drunk, and you are shouting obscenities or
otherwise behaving loutish, expect some problems.
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Need
something to wear?
Getting there
I doubt that you'll encounter problems driving to the ballpark;
I've never had any. Traffic to the
stadium is usually smooth and swift except during rush hour.
Sometimes things get a little backed up after a game, but if
you plot a route back to your hotel using one of the major
streets leading out of the downtown area, you won't end up stuck on an
Interstate entry ramp. There
is plenty of parking available, and you can click
here or on the map to see the locations of the lots. About
half of the lots are in the $10-15 range, but there are almost as
many at $10 and under; you just have to walk a little farther.
Okay, maybe I shouldn't publicize this lot since it's my favorite, but
since I only get back to St. Louis for a couple of games each year,
what the heck. I almost always park at the public garage at Pine
and Seventh; it's a pleasant, short walk to the ballpark through Kiener
Plaza and usually costs around $5.
You can also park well outside of the downtown area and take the MetroLink
right to the stadium. Single rides are only
$2.00 each,
and
you can purchase a day pass for $4.50. Here's a link to a map
of the system.
While getting to the park via MetroLink is quick and easy, be aware
that after the game, everyone who came to the park that way will be
heading for the station along with you, and the wait for a train could
be
significant.
You may have seen a headline or two recently stating that St. Louis
moved up to number one on a most dangerous cities list for
2006. What the brief newspaper articles didn't say was that the
same Morgan Quinto Press study that used FBI data to compile its most
dangerous cities report also used FBI data to compile a most dangerous
metropolitan area report. Guess where St. Louis ranked in that
one. . . 129th out of 344.
Morgan Quitno's
"Most Dangerous Cities" ranking has been criticized as
a statistical half-truth, since it does not adjust rankings of cities
with wide area city limits (Houston, Jacksonville) compared to cities
with inner core limits (St. Louis, Atlanta). Houston's city crime
statistics, for instance, are diluted by lower crime in affluent areas
within its broad city limits, whereas almost all the low crime affluent
areas of St. Louis are outside its city limits, which constitutes only
12.5% of its metro area. Problems with Morgan Quitno's "cities"
ranking
becomes
evident when compared to its most dangerous metro area
rankings. Morgan Quitno puts Houston at number 22 out of 344 metro
areas, but places St. Louis almost 100 slots lower, with no explanation
for the disparity in the two lists. (from Wikipedia)
So
. . . don't let the hyped-up dangerous city report concern you if
you're going to be staying in downtown St. Louis. It's
safe to walk all around Kiener Plaza, Laclede's Landing, and the
downtown ballpark area
before and after
ballgames; yes, night games too. Just stay south of Delmar
Boulevard, as St. Louis
crime is primarily concentrated well to the north of downtown--that's
where the Griswolds made their wrong turn in National Lampoon's Family Vacation.
Arriving at the game
Local fans in St. Louis seem to get to
the ballpark earlier
than in a
lot of other places. You should too.
The outside of the
stadium is pretty interesting if you haven't been
there before. As you circle the stadium you'll see life-size
statues of
famous Cardinals including Musial, Slaughter, Brock, Schoendienst,
Smith, and Gibson. If you look closely at the stadium facade, you
can
see ninety-four small, embedded
medallions showing historical Cardinal
logos; replicas are, of course, available for sale at the team
store. On the pavement, you can read fan-purchased commemorative
bricks surrounding larger plaques remembering one hundred significant
events in Cardinal history. You'll find several souvenir stands
open
as well. If you're planning on eating before the park opens, be
sure
to do so on the way from the parking lot as there is no food available
immediately outside the park; of course, that will change once Ballpark
Village opens, hopefully in time for some of the 2007 season.
The gates generally open two hours before game
time. If you enter
then, you arrive right in the middle of Cardinal batting
practice. Visitor batting practice begins approximately 80
minutes before game time.
The
only restrictions on what can be brought into the park are those that
are imposed by Major League Baseball. The stadium inspection
policy
used to be posted at the Cardinals website, but the last time I looked,
I couldn't find it. This is how it used to read:
"In
conjunction with a league-wide policy established by Major League
Baseball, the St. Louis Cardinals reserve the right to inspect all
items entering Busch Stadium. Guests may carry in items including:
backpacks, purses, diaper bags, fanny packs and soft-sided coolers that
do not exceed a maximum size of 16" x 16" x 8". Bags that exceed this
size are not permitted in the stadium. Alcohol, bottles, cans,
thermoses, hard-sided coolers, hard plastic cups/mugs are not
permitted. Non-alcoholic beverages including water and soda in open
cups or in clear plastic bottles no larger than 2 liters are allowed.
All items will be inspected."
The Family Pavillion, sponsored by U.S. Cellular, also opens two hours
before game time. It is located between Gates 1 and 6 on Level 1
and includes a
Batting Cage, T-Ball Cages, Speed Pitch, and other
similar activities. Admission is free, but some activities and
games require a small fee.
If you have a little one, or even if you don't, you may want to visit
the Build-A- Bear "Make-Your-Own- Fredbird" stand located behind
Section 153
(between Gates 1 and 3 on the Level 1 Main Concorse). Lines can
get long, especially from about the fifth inning on, so if you want
your own Fredbird without an hour wait, I'd advise going before the
game.
Eating
and drinking in the ballpark
There is a nice
variety of concession stands spread throughout the stadium, and
prices are about average for average stadium fare. Expect
to pay around $15-25 per adult per game.
Unfortunately,
the Cardinals have opted not to serve any regional specialties, not
even St. Louis Style Ribs, which is surprising since they have some
very good Baby Back Ribs at the Broadway BBQ. If you want to
sample some local fare, you'll have to do
that before or after the
game.
Actually, you can find one group of local specialties at the ballpark:
Anheuser-Busch
products and lots of them, but only until the 7th inning. After
that, beer sales cease. The Cardinals also have a Designated
Driver program. If you are at least 21 years old and have a valid
driver's license, you can sign up at kiosks around the park.
You'll get a special key chain and at least one free soft drink or
O'Doul's. You'll also be eligible for free give-aways during the
game and may find your name splashed across the scoreboard.
Other
area eats and drink
There are several nearby places to grab a bite or a drink either before
or after a game.
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Al
Hrabosky's Ballpark Saloon, 800 Cerre Street. It is what it
is; a ballpark saloon with a good selection of bar food and a nice
collection of baseball memorabilia. It serves cheap drinks to a
relatively
young crowd, so it can get a little wild. To help you put things in
perspective, a "Girls Gone Wild" video
was
filmed here. It's not uncommon to find a Cardinal or two after
the
game.
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Dierdorf
& Hart's
Steakhouse, 701 Market Street. That's as in Dan Dierdorf and
Jim
Hart, stars on the Football Cardinals during the only good years the
Bidwells' team ever had in this city. It's an upscale steak
house, so
you'd
probably feel uncomfortable wearing shorts and a Cubs Suck t-shirt.
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Dooley's Ltd.,
308 N. Eighth Street. Unfortunately, I
think Dooley's has gone out of business. If so, that's too bad
because it was a
traditional
lunchspot and afterwork hangout for downtowners, where visitors
wouldn't feel out
of place. It would usually close at 7 pm
unless someone was
still drinking at the bar. It was a nice
place for a quick pre-game burger, steak, or
chicken dinner. |
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Eat
Right Diner,
622 Chouteau Avenue. "Eat right, or don't eat at all." No, I'm
not kidding. It looks like a dump, but it's not. It's one
of the
last great downtown diners. Six hamburgers for $4.50; how can you beat
that? After drinking all night at Hrabosky's, stop by for a slinger.
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F15teen, 1900 Locust Avenue.
Jimmy Edmonds' may not be playing this year, but his relatively new
restaurant and
lounge is still going strong. It's a nice place, and there
isn't a single piece of sports memorabilia in sight.
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Mike Shannon's
Steak and Seafood,
620 Market Street. This is another upscale
steakhouse. It is a little dressy, but you should be
treated right on game days even in casual game attire. Mike
Shannon broadcasts a live sports show
from here after Friday night home games.
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Paddy O's,
618 S. Seventh Street. This is the original St. Louis ballpark
bar,
opened by a transplanted Bostonian in the mid-1990s. It's usually
a
little more crowded than Hrabosky's, but a little less
boisterous. There are frequent ballplayer sightings after the
game, even
players from the visiting teams.
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St. Louis
Bread Company,
116 N. Sixth Street. You've heard of Panera Bread, right? Well,
that company originated in St. Louis and its local restaurants never
changed
their original names. The menus are exactly the same as all of
Panera
Breads across the United States.
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Laclede's
Landing
- Laclede's landing is a nine block restaurant district in one of
the oldest sections of town just north of the Arch. The district
features
cobblestone streets, carriage rides, about twenty interesting
restaurants, clubs, and bars, and some of the most oldest remaining
commercial and industrial structures in the city.
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Further afield, but Cardinal related |
J. Bucks - The J.
Bucks small chain
of restaurants in Clayton, West County, Fairview Heights, and O'Fallon,
opened in 1999 and bear the name of--you guessed it--the Buck family:
Jack, Joe, and Julie.
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Ozzie's
-
Ozzie Smith's mega-sports bar and restaurant opened in Westport Plaza
in 1988. The menu selection is nicer than most sports bars.
The Wizard is occasionally around to sign autographs.
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Pujols 5 Grill
- Albert opened
his restaurant, also a high-class sports bar and also in Westport
Plaza, in 2006.
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The best sports bar in town
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St.
Louis Sports Zone
- By far, the Sports Zone is the best sports bar and restaurant in St.
Louis. It's located in Kenrick Plaza, along old Highway 66 just
outside the city limits in Shrewsbury, my hometown.
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Regional food
favorites
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Gooey Butter Cake:
Somebody once told me that if you find three or more St. Louisans
together around ten o'clock in the moring with a pot of coffee, there's
90% chance that they'll also have a gooey butter cake on the
table. Gooey butter cakes are made by combining butter, sugar,
corn syrup, and shortening together, pouring the mixture into
dough-filled baking tins, sprinking a layer of confectioners sugar on
top, and popping them into ovens until the dough is golden brown and
the filling develops a pudding-like consistancy.
You can find gooey butter cakes at most bakeries in the city,
especially the German bakeries that dot the southside, but if you're in
a hurry to find one, just stop at any of the ubiquitous Schnucks or
Dierbergs
supermarkets; you're sure to find one at the bakery counter.
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Gus's
Pretzels: I grew up on Gus's pretzels, and they are great.
The
pretzels you find at shopping malls pale in comparison. Gus's
pretzels are about an inch thick and come in two styles: traditional 4"
pretzel twists and foot-long straight sticks (everyone's favorite).
They are soft
and chewy and coated with coarse salt. At one
time you could find a pretzel vendor peddling paper bags holding a
half-dozen of the things on street corners throughout the city,
especially on Sundays. Those guys are a little harder to find
today. Now, the best way to get some of the treats is to visit
Gus's Pretzel
bakery, but that's actually for the better because when you buy them at
the store, they're hot from the oven. One thing to remember,
though, don't buy any more than you can eat in one day. The
pretzels don't have any preservatives and by the second day will have
become hard as a rock. Gus's is located down by the brewery at
1820 Arsenal Street, just off I-55.
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Jack Salmon Fish Fry: Hake has
traditionally gotten a bad rap in the United States because some
species
are not all that pleasant to eat. Thus, those species that have
sweeter, delicate, white flesh often go by other names in different
parts of the country: whitefish, whiting, Pacific Whiting, and in St.
Louis, Jack Salmon, which is the fish of choice at most
local fish fries, where they are usually skinned and coated with corn
meal breading before being dipped into the hot oil. The best
place to try Jack Salmon is at a weekend fishfry
sponsored by any one of the area's Catholic parishes, and the
best way to find one one of those is to check the
"Calendar" section the "The St. Louis Review," the weekly newspaper
of
the Archdiocese of St. Louis, which usually includes a list upcoming
fish fries. If you can't find a
fishfry through the Review, you can always visit one of the many small
neighborhood tavern-restaurants that have Jack Salmon on the menu, like
Hodak's
Restaurant at 2100
Gravois Avenue.
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Molasses Puffs: Molasses puffs
are the St. Louis version of an old-time candy that is fairly hard to
find today. As far as I know there are only two other regional
pockets in the United States where it is still popular: Buffalo where
it is known
as Sponge Toffee/Candy and in some places in Northern California and
Oregon where it is called Sea
Foam. The candy has a sweet and sticky, but very rigid and airy,
foam-like center, which is covered with a rather thick layer of
chocolate. (There is a mass produced candybar called Violet Crunch that
is somewhat similar, but nowhere near as tasty.) Several regional
department stores used to sell
Molasses Puffs at their candy counters, but now you'll probably need to
make a trip to one of the Bissingers
stores,
Merbs (4000 S. Grand Avenue), or Crown Candy
Kitchen (1401
St. Louis Avenue) to
find some. Occasionally Molasses Puffs also turn up on the shelves of Straubs Fine
Grocers.
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Red Hot Riplets:
Red Hot Riplets are a
regional style of potato chips flavored with a
hot and sweet barbecue seasoning. You can also find a "Cheesy"
variety. They are available at most mom-and-pop food stores
throughout north St. Louis and usually available at Schnucks grocery
stores. The chips gained national exposure when referenced in
piece appropriately entitled, Red
Hot Riplets, by rapper, Murphy Lee.
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St. Louis Barbeque:
There are two types of barbeque popular in St. Louis, spare ribs and
pork steaks.
St. Louis Style Barbecued Spare Ribs
differ from other types in two main areas: the cut and the
rub/sauce.
The St. Louis cut removes the lower fatty parts of the slab (which are
often prepared as "rib tips") and all of the tough membrane, keeping
only the
center cut of the rack. This results in ribs with long thin bones
and
a lot of tender meat without much fat or gristle. Once the rack
has
been trimmed, it is coated with a rub made of brown sugar, salt and
pepper and rested for several hours. The ribs are then slowly
smoked;
when done, the meat will have pulled back slightly from the ends of the
bones. While some folks like their ribs dry, most prefer to
slather
them with a semi-thick, sweet and tangy, vinegar and tomato based
sauce,
like Maull's,
often just before removing them from the smoker. The finished ribs are
falling-off-the-bone tender as opposed to other firmer styles, like
the smaller baby backs, which are usually cooked faster and at higher
temperatures. If
you've ever eaten ribs at a Famous Dave's or Smokey Bones, you've
probably had St. Louis style barbecue ribs. You can hunt around
the
area for old style ribshacks, but your best bet to find St.
Louis style barbeque ribs quickly is to visit any Bandana's Bar-B-Q.
Barbecued Pork Steaks are another St.
Louis specialty, but almost no restaurants have them on the menu.
Pork steaks, cut from the center of a pork shoulder, are not barbecued
in the tradtional smoking sense. Rather they're slowly grilled
over an open fire and, once done, they are simmered in a
traditional St. Louis
style barbecue sauce. The best way to try them is to ingratiate
youself to a local and get invited to a backyard cookout. If that
doesn't work, make a trip up out Interstate 44 toward Eureka and visit Super Smokers.
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St. Louis Style Pizza: You
can find traditional Italian, New York, Chicago deep dish, Midwestern
thin-crust, and Domino's-style pizza throughout St. Louis. You
can also find a type of pizza that is unique to the area. The Imo
family is usually credited with originating the St. Louis Style Pizza
in the mid-1960s. When you see St. Louis Pizza on a menu, it
means that the
pizza has a midwestern type thin crust (no yeast in the dough), is
topped with Provel (a combination of white cheddar, swiss, and
provolone) instead of mozzarella and/or ricotta, and will be cut into
3" squares
instead of slices. The three largest St. Louis style pizza chains
are Imo's Pizza,
Elicia's
Pizza, and Cecil
Whittaker's Pizzeria.
They are located all over the city, and most deliver.
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St. Louis's Favorite Hamburgers:
Steak 'n Shake - Yes, I
realize that you can now find find Steak 'n Shakes in most mid-western
and southern states, but St. Louis was the site of the chain's first
major franchising effort back in the 1930s and nowhere, except probably
for
Indianapolis, are there more per capita than in St. Louis. Steak
'n Shakes are all
over town, so if you're looking for a quick lunch, try a steakburger or
any of the patty melts along with a frosty malt, side-by-side shake, or
orange freeze.
White Castle - If Harold and
Kumar lived in St. Louis, their movie could have never been made.
Again, I realize that White Castles can be found throughout a good bit
of the Midwest and have even cropped up in New York and New Jersey, but
the distribution area is still rather limited. If you have a
slyder craving, you can take care of it at any one of numerous White
Castles throughout the metropolitan area.
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St. Louis's Favorite Sandwiches:
Amighetti's Special Sandwich -
The Special is made with ham, roast beef, Genoa salami, brick cheese,
lettuce, tomato, pickles, onions, pepperoncini
and secret dressing on freshly baked Italian bread. The only
place to
find theses sandwiches are at any of the three Amighetti Bakeries: 5141
Wilson
Avenue on The Hill, 9438 Manchester Road in Rock Hill, and 209 Village
Square in Hazelwood.
Gerber Sandwich - A
relative newcomer to the St. Louis food scene, the Gerber was first
prepared by Patrick Stoll at Ruma's Deli (now located as 7329
Watson Road) in the early 1970s. The Gerber is a
toasted open-faced
sandwich made garlic bread,
ham, Provel or provolone, and sprinkled with paprika. It's
usually found at small grills and deli's like DB Sports Bar (1615
S. Broadway in the Soulard area) and Smugala's Pizza (3730 S. Lindbergh
in Sunset Hills), both of which Ruma's is threatening to sue for
trademark infringement.
St. Paul's Sandwich - I don't think anyone knows
how this sandwich got it's name, but it doesn't have anything to do
with St. Paul. It
consists of one Egg Foo Young patty (no brown sauce) with bean sprouts,
mayo, and dill pickles between two slices of standard white sandwich
bread. Occasionally, it's served with some lettuce and a slice of
tomato. The
St. Paul can be found in almost every one of the numerous, small, mom
and pop chop-suey houses (not to be confused with Chinese
restaurants)
in St. Louis. Unfortunately almost all of them are
located north of Delmar Boulevard, which--if you read my notes on crime
above and remember the Griswolds--you will know is an area tourists
should avoid without a local
host. The one
place that I know tourists can safely try a St. Paul is the Park Chop
Suey
House (that's not the red building pictured here), located at 1711 Park
Ave at
Lafayette Square. To complete your north St. Louis
lunch treat, pick up a Pineapple Vess and a bag of
Riplets to go along with your
St. Paul.
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St. Louis's Favorite Softdrinks:
Fitz's Root Beer:
Fitz's Root Beer was first produced in the late 1940s to serve with
hamburgers at Fitz's Drive-In. It went out of production when the
drive-in closed in 1970, but the bottling line reopened again with an
attached restaurant in 1985 at 6605 Delmar Boulevard. Fitz's now
sells a variety of flavored sodas, and its restaurant, with a
view of the bottling process, is a St. Louis favorite.
Vess Sodas: Vess
"Billion Bubble
Beverages" have been available in St. Louis for over eighty years, and
the company's giant neon bottle sign, originally located at the
corner of
Hampton Avenue and Gravois Boulevard, is now found at 520 O'Fallon
Street, just north of the Rams' Edward Jones Dome. While Vess
produces a wide variety of flavors including Cola, Root Beer, Ginger
Ale, Black Cherry, Blue Raspberry, Cherry Cola, Mountain Vess, Peach,
Pina Colada, Pineapple, and Strawberry, it's most popular products are
a distinctive Red Cream Soda and Whistle, an orange soda that at one
time gave Orange Crush a run for its money. It's getting harder
to find all of the Vess flavors, but usually the shelves at Dierberg
Markets will have some available.
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Slinger:
A slinger is a tradtional anti-hangover breakfast plate served at small
St. Louis grills and diners. The basic slinger usually consists
of two hamburger or cheesburger patties, served on a plate with hash
browns and two eggs (any style), a large dollop of chile (with or
without beans) and topped off with onions and grated cheese.
The creation is usually attributed to the string of O.T. Hodge Chile
Parlors (that's how Mr. Hodge spelled 'chili') that floursihed in the
city following the 1904 Worlds' Fair. Now, only one recently
opened O.T. Hodge
Chile Parlor
remains at 250 South Florrisant Road. You can also get a great
slinger at the Eat
Right Diner
at 622
Chouteau Avenue. |
Ted Drewe's
Frozen Custard:
Although Ted Drewe had been in the ice cream business since 1929, once
he opened his stand at 6726 Chippewa (old Highway 66), business never
quit
booming. The house specialty is called a "Concrete," a super
thick shake that can be ordered in a seemingly infinite number of
flavor combinations. If you'd rather have a sundae, ask for the
Cardinal Sin; it's topped with hot fudge and tart cherries. The
place is packed on summer evenings and
although it is several miles from Busch stadium, many fans who live
west or south of the ballpark stop by on their way home. By the
way, you'll need both a spoon and a straw to
finish your concrete; a spoon initially and a straw once it melts.
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Toasted
Ravioli: Toasted or Fried Ravioli was "invented" in the
old St. Louis
neighborhood known--as Time Magizine noted--"unselfconciously
as Dago Hill." The Hill, as it is more politely referred to today
was established in
the
late 1880s as a 50-square-block southside enclave of northern Italian
immigrants;
Kings
Highway . . . the creek . . . railroad tracks . . . that was our
boundary! . . . Up the Hill we
had the Blue Ridge Gang—Irish. To the northwest we had the Cheltenham
Gang—a mixture of Germans and more or less natives. East of Kings
Highway was the Tower Grove Gang, what most of us refer to as Hoosiers,
people up from small towns . . . then the Dog Town Gang to the
west. .
. . You go beyond that and you get your ass kicked around so you stayed
within your limits. (Lou
Berra, Journal of Sports History, Summer 1982)
Anyway, The Hill is covered with Italian restaurants that rival those
found anywhere along Arthur Avenue or Mulberry Street in New
York. Depending upon which legend you choose to believe,
toasted ravioli came into being as the result of kitchen accidents at
either Oldani's (now Mama
Campisi's at 2132 Edwards Street) in 1943 or Angelo's (now Charlie
Gitto's at
5226 Shaw Avenue) in 1947. Regardless, although you can now order
the appetizer at any Olive Garden, it isn't quite the same as the
platters served at any of the restaurants on The Hill.
By the way, if you make it to The Hill for a meal, you may want to
drive by the 5400 block of Elizabeth Avenue where the boyhood homes of
Yogi
Berra and Joe Garagiola sit across the street from each other at 5446
and 5447 while Jack Buck's earliest St. Louis residence is at 5405.
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Where
to stay.
It's easy enough to get to Busch Stadium from anywhere in the bi-state
region so it really doesn't matter where you stay while visiting the
Cardinals. That said, there are several hotels within easy
walking distance of the ballpark that offer special package promotions
geared to folks attending a ballgame:
Other
things to see and do.
If you're spending additional time in St. Louis and looking for
something to do, why not check out some of these:
Anheuser-Busch Brewery Tour: Unless your an extra
snooty micro-brew
fanatic who detests light American lagers, a visit to
the historic
Busch flagship brewery is worth your time. The brewery is just
south of downtown and easy to find. Tours include the formal
stable home of the famous Clydesdale hitch, the brew house, and the
packaging plant. Oh, all the tours end with a stop
at the brewery's large gift shop and its hospitality room where adults
get free samples of
Anheuser-Busch products, and kids get courtesy soft drinks. Tours
run daily.
Bowling:
Are you snickering? Bowling has always been a big deal in St.
Louis, ever since the days of local heroes Dick Weber,
Ray Bluth, and
Don Carter. If
you've watched The Big Lebowski
more than once or
if you ever wasted more than a couple of Saturday afternoons listening
to Chris Shenkel do the play-by-play for ABC TV's championship bowling
shows, you might be interested in visiting the International
Bowling Museum and
Hall of Fame just across the street from Busch Stadium.
If you'd like to roll a few frames, St. Louis is loaded with
bowling alleys. One of the most interesting is the retro-chic Pinup Bowl and
Cocktail Lounge,
where it's not unusual to find Nelly having a good time with some of
his Saint Lunatic crew.
As an alternative, you might want to visit one of the small bowling
alleys run by local Catholic parishes. Strange as it may seem,
church lanes were quite common in St. Louis in the past and served
as community social centers for many years. Several are still in
operation. Why not stop by the Epiphany
Lanes,
at 3164 Ivanhoe, where shoes rent for $.75 and open bowling is only
$1.25 a game.
The
Blues: No, not the hockey team; the music. St. Louis
has a long and
rich blues history. Heck, the longest-lasting
popular blues song ever, The
Saint Louis Blues, by W. C. Handy, references the city, so it
seems only to make sense that there are more active blues musicians in
St. Louis than anywhere else in the county. Traditional St. Louis
style blues is piano-based with an uptempo, ragtimey sound.
Today, however, all types of blues are heard in the city. If
you'd like to spend some time in one of the local blues clubs, you can
see whose playing at the STLBlues.net
entertainment calendar.
Casinos: There's no
need to make a separate Las Vegas or Atlantic City
trip if you want to visit a first class
casino; there are several in St. Louis: the
Ameristar
Casino, the
Argosy Alton
Belle, the
Casino Queen, Harrah's
St. Louis, and the
President Casino on The Admiral. While the President Casino
on the Admiral isn't necessarily the fanciest, it's my
favorite. That's because The Admiral, a four-deck steamship with
over 200,000 square feet of floor space, has been operating on the
Mississippi River for 100 years. It began life as a railroad
transfer boat in 1907, and was rebuilt into the silver, stream-lined
art deco vessel of today in the late 1930s. The best part about
the Admiral is that it is moored at Laclede's Landing just a short walk
from the ballpark.
Chuck
Berry at
Blueberry Hill - "If you tried to give Rock and Roll another name, you might call it Chuck Berry" - John
Lennon. Believe it or not, the Grandfather of Rock, 80-year-old
Chuck Berry, still performs his legendary show at the Blueberry Hill's
Duck Room at least once each month, usually on a Wednesday
evening. If you want to see him duckwalk across the stage while
performing all of his hits, you'll
need to purchase
tickets a month in advance. Even if he's not performing, you
can see a nice collection of related memorabilia, have casual dinner,
and catch some of the best local and visiting bands at Blueberry Hill.
Forest
Park: Forest Park is the heart of St. Louis. It was the site of the
1904 World's Fair and is almost twice as large as New York's Central
Park. It includes several museums, a large lake and boathouse,
three golf courses, the city's statue of St. Louis, and much
more. Two of it's components are major attractions in their own
right. The St.
Louis Zoo
(rated by Zagats as the top zoo in the country) is in the park as is The Muny (the
nation's oldest and largest outdoor theater where you can watch a
traveling Broadway show for free). Additionally, Forest Park is
the site of numerous special events throughout the year, such as the
St. Louis Balloon race and the St. Louis Shakespeare Festival.
Gateway
Arch
Riverfront and the Jefferson
National
Expansion Memorial. Nothing typifies St. Louis better than a
steamboat cruising past the 630 foot Gateway Arch that stands on the
bank of the Mississippi River right in the heart of downtown. On
a clear day, the view from the top of the Arch is spectacular, but
don't worry about wearing youself out on a long climb. Trams,
that always remind me of giant clothesdryer tubs, carry visitors both
up and down. If you have any interest at all in American history,
the Museum of Westward Expansion, located beneath the Arch, is
well worth a visit. Sightseeing riverboats are located right on
the levee, just down a flight of steps from the base of the Arch.
Grant's
Farm and the
Clydesdales - Grant's Farm has been rated as the 7th best family attraction in the country, and I
wouldn't be at all surprised if you've never heard of it. It is a
St. Louis institution. Althougth at one time this was the summer
home of the Busch family and it is still owned by the brewery, prior to
the Civil War Ulysses S. Grant attempted to farm this same area, and
his tiny cabin remains on the grounds. Today, this wildlife
preserve is a great place to take younger children as petting areas and
small animals abound. Just like the brewery, Grant's Farm has a
hospitality area that serves complimentary Anheuser-Busch
products. Additionally, the Busch Clydesdale stables, which are
open to the public, are adjacent to the Grant's Farm parking lot.
Admission is free, but parking is $8 per car.
Laumeier
Sculpture Park - One of the world's premier sculpture parks, Laumeier contains over 100
acres of parkland filled with approximately 450 kinetic, static,
natural, mechanical, whimsical, and natural sculptures by noted
contemporary artists carefully installed in large meadows and along
paved paths and hiking trails. Smaller works are displayed in an
on-site museum gallery. The largest sculpture, The Way by
Alexander Lieberman, is 65 feet tall, 102 feet long, and weighs more
than 50 tons. If you want to get a way from the city and spend
some time walking in the woods, you can't beat this park.
Museum of
the Dog - The American Kennel Club's Museum of the Dog displays over 700 originals of the best dog
art (paintings, sculptures, prints, porcelains, etc.) in the
world. The collection includes original works by Edwin Landseer,
William Maud, and others. The museum also houses the All-Star
Dogs
Hall of Fame. I bet you never guessed there was a museum like
this. If you're a dog lover, consider spending an hour or two
browsing through the colletion. There is also a nice gift shop
with many one-of-a-kind and exclusive works of art for sale.
Museum
of
Transportation - Formerly known as the National Museum of Transport, this is one of the best railroad
collections in the country. The outside collection includes over
33 steam locomotives, 27 diesel locomotives, 10 electric locomotives,
45 freight cars, 31 passenger cars and more. The museum also has
nice collections of trolleys, automobiles, and a few river
vessels. The museum even houses a section of the Coral Courts
Motel, one of the first "modern" motels and long-time landmark on Route
66.
St.
Louis Cardinals Hall of Fame - The St. Louis Cardinals Hall of Fame
contains over 100 years of memorabilia related
to the team. All of the team's worlds series and pennant winning
teams are featured with displays including jerseys, equipment, rings,
balls, programs, scorecards and more. Special displays recognize
all of the Cardinal's past stars, and there are sections devoted
to the old St. Louis Browns of the American League and the St. Louis
Stars of the Negro League. The museum is located right at stadium
plaza in the same building as the International Bowling Hall of Fame.
Shaw's
Garden (The Missouri Botanical Garden) - Shaw's Garden was founded in 1859 and is one of the premier
institutions in the world devoted to the botanical research and
study. Better yet, for tourists and locals it is also one of the
finest parks in the world as well. The Garden encompasses
approximately 80 acres of horticultural displays including a 14 acre
Japanese garden and the world famous Climatron conservatory.
Open, with beautiful permanent and rotating displays, year round.
Six
Flags St. Louis - What can you say; it's a Six Flags, and one of
the first three to be built. Six Flags
St. Louis contains
all the standard thrill rides with seven major roller coasters
including the Screamin'
Eagle, a wooden roller coaster, which at one time held the record for
the
largest, longest, and fastest roller coaster in the world.
The newest section is Bugs Bunny National Park, a themepark within a
themepark that is designed for families; all of it's rides can be
enjoyed
by
infants, older kids, and adults.
Union Station - Union Station was once the largest
and busiest train station in the world. Today it houses
one of St. Louis best shopping and entertainment venues containing a
luxury hotel, indoor lake, ten screen movie theater, festival/concert
plaza,
food court, railroad museum, two gigantic ballrooms, and approximately
100 specialty stores and restaurants. I have an especially fond
place in my heart for Union Station as my great grandfather was one of
the architects who assisted Theodore Link in its design.
For more
information:
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